Hello Lovely Readers,
This week I’m about to embark on a fairly large project. Its been a while since I’ve done a gig where quantity is involved. In this case, I’ll be building 25 identical costumes in several sizes. My plan is to do my best balancing the need to fit individuals and also create some ‘standard’ sizes that might be used again in future years by my clients.
It starts with this: an existing costume that is the last of it’s kind remaining in their costume stock. There was originally a set, but someone happened to get rid of all but one. Unfortunately, the online source no longer produces this particular design. Luckily for both parties, I’m good friends with the choreographer and he has hired me to make a similar version.
Bollywood Costume Original: Front View. Actually appears more turquoise IRL.
Part of the challenge was sourcing the different fabrics involved. For some reason, my usual retail outlets do not stock things like stretch mesh in any quantity, and I needed a lot. The skirts are full circles with trim that acts as an accent and a weight – making it move and drape like (bouncy) chiffon.
Skirt trim detail.
The bodice has different fabric on the front and back, and there is a bodysuit panty on the bottom. I fortunately found someone who was willing to order nearly everything for me and have it shipped here. Now it’s a waiting game until I get it in my hands to start cutting and assembling.
Last week I took measurements on all the ladies who will be performing in these costumes, and made a chart with them to get an idea of size range. Due to the nature of stretch fabrics, the same size fits most in general. The recurring alteration was in the neckline. Nearly everyone needed it to be taken in significantly. Of course there are also a few who need slightly shorter or longer skirts but that’s an easy fix.
The bodysuit bottom under the skirt, and more accurate colour depiction.
The panty (oh I hate that word!) fits nearly everyone well except that for some reason the elastic in the edges is quite lax. Simply using a shorter piece of elastic in the leg openings will tighten things up and make it fit better.
My second challenge was self induced. Due to a hectic work schedule on a show last month, the sewing room and its contents had been dreadfully neglected. The last few days I’ve tried to get it back to a useable workspace in preparation. It’s easy when you work for/by yourself I find, to power through and not take the time to re-set things when you are finished a project, but taking a day to clear the space and your head is highly advisable.
The many pieces involved encourage me to be quite scientific about this project. My first task today will be to assess the size range and draft patterns. The first will be a direct copy of the existing bodysuit dimensions, as there are some dancers that it fit well in the shoulders etc. Then I will grade up or down to tailor for petite or voluptuous ladies. Mostly these adjustments occur in the upper bodice piece.
Off to make more tea and prep some patterns!
Stay tuned for the next instalment!
Love Heather
