Throw Way Back: My Edwardian Skirt Phase

There was a time when I was pretty pumped about trumpet skirts. I still like the style, and the fact that you can cut out the same pattern piece 8 times and get a flattering garment is awesome. It started in a surprising place – the 1980s. Or rather, a movie from that decade. Pretty in Pink is one of those movies I re-watch every so often and am kind of disappointed that it’s not as good as I remember. Don’t get me started on the fact that despite making her own clothes, Molly Ringwald’s character makes the world’s ugliest, most shapeless dress from two not bad dresses…

Iona (the eccentric record store owner) goes through a number of looks that were prominent during that decade. One (my favourite) is a 40s inspired ensemble with a fitted trumpet skirt in which each panel is a different fabric. The clashing patterns in a that skirt with a great line somehow worked and I decided to make my own version.

Mine is made from 8 different materials with prints or woven patterns, mostly suitings. It’s not nearly as fitted as the movie version because I wanted to be able to move more freely in it – and be able to ride my bike. I drafted my own pattern, and played with the order of the panels until it worked.

I really like the look of the original and perhaps one day I’ll do a more form fitting version. With a peplum blouse and a red snood of course…

The next few are more Edwardian in style (of course much shorter than acceptable at the turn of the last century). There was a turquoise poplin with pleated flounce, black satin bows and a mini bustle:

Made as an outfit with this long line corset (coiled steel boning, lined in black cotton). I wore this to a wedding with a black shrug and my Fluevog Babycakes.

Of course there’s also a matching petticoat! Cotton trumpet skirt with ruffle flounce and lace trims. Satin ribbon bows match the placement on the outer skirt.

I have worn this as a skirt on it’s own as well. The waistband is my go-to for under layers – a cotton lycra band that is comfy, pull-on and doesn’t create too much bulk under another skirt. Sadly, this pretty little number needs some repair. I haven’t dressed like this in a while, but I’m thinking it might work under a 40s or 50s frock for some subtle volume.

I can’t recall where I found this lovely pink and white houndstooth suiting but I suspect that it was a second hand find because of the limited amount. It’s fairly ‘wooly’ with a loose weave, so I lined the waistband and front flaps with muslin so that it could be worn without a petticoat and not be itchy next to my skin. The front panel has a straight centre so that it falls flat to the hem, rather than the 2 trumpet panels of the other skirts. I love the fall front with 2 rows of buttons (not just for sailors!) and I wanted them to be functional. After studying period pattern resources, I discovered that I’d need under-flaps that button together first, then the fall front which buttons to the flaps. It baffles me as to why this style of fastening was popular for so long. Construction-wise it’s hard to get your head around, especially in trousers.

This is definitely a fall/winter skirt. With a petticoat it does keep your legs warm!

Speaking of petticoats, here’s my white on white version. The fabric is a woven white stripe that I think is perfect for the project. It’s the sort of skirt you want to wear to a picnic on the lawn – if only  the lawn wasn’t so likely to stain your lovely white skirt…

I did manage to wear this out and about on it’s own a number of times, and of course it did get some spots on it. I don’t know how those Edwardian ladies kept their summer whites white – likely some very hard working servants I imagine.

Update: After a nice long soak in Oxiclean, most of the staining came out. Hurrah! I still need to do some repairs but I look forward to wearing it again this summer.

This teal striped version is pretty much the same pattern. I added a self fabric bow to the back for a subtle touch of whimsy. What I need now is some white cotton tops with the feel of a corset cover to complete the look. Possibly some skipping through a meadow…

Additionally,  I’ve made the basic pattern up in a lovely drape-y black suiting which is rather boring in pictures, but is a great versatile skirt that goes with a number of outfits.

It’s been fun down memory lane! Perhaps some of these need to get some love and wear again soon, especially the cotton versions. Picnic anyone?

~Heather